Tube-style devices became popular because they functioned better, dissipated heat, were small, lightweight, and wore evenly over time.įinally, in the 1990s, the North American climbing manufacturer Black Diamond came out with a more modern belay device–the air traffic controller ( 4). In time, slotted plate devices like the Sticht gave way to the tubular device, also known as tubers ( 3). Later, the German climbing manufacturer Edelrid came up with the Bankl, which was directly inspired by the original slotted plate design. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the Sticht Plate ( 2), named after Fritz Sticht. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. Similarly, in the climbing context, the belayer (and the belay device) are responsible for the climber’s safe fall. The airport’s air traffic controller controls the aircraft’s safe landing. One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC.īlack Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. This progression in the sport of climbing, of trying harder and feeling okay to fall, has its roots implanted in creating one of the most reliable belay devices known to the sport– the Black Diamond ATC ( 1). As a result, most climber falls are no longer catastrophic– so long as the belayer does their job, of course.īecause belaying is safer and falling while climbing has become normalized, climbers can push themselves into more challenging and more complicated terrain. The sport of climbing has evolved because belaying techniques and gear have become much safer. Keep reading to learn about the most iconic belay device– the Black Diamond ATC. The tube-style device, assisted braking devices, and other belay devices have changed the face of what it means to belay. Climbing and belaying have become much safer, mostly thanks to modern belay devices. This is especially true for climbing equipment, most notably – belay devices.īack in the day, the proper belay technique was as simple as wrapping one rope around your waist (and maybe shoulders) to give a “hip-belay.” Unfortunately, belaying was so insecure that the safety guidelines for climbers were not to fall. ![]() Advantages and Drawbacks of ATC Belay DevicesĬlimbing has come a long way since its old-school origins.
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